1	Crinoline Period 1848-1870 Virginia S. Wimberley, Ph.D. CTD 448: History of Costume Clothing, Textiles, and Interior Design
2	Major Events of the Period 1851 Louis Napoleon seizes power in France 1851 Crystal Palace Exhibition in London, England 1852 Louis Napoleon crowned Emperor Napoleon III 1853Commodore Perry opens trade with Japan 1854 Crimean War begins 1855 Sewing machine perfected for mass 1856 Bessemer invents converter to make pig iron into steel 1856 Henry Perkins invents synthetic dyes 1857Cage crinoline of metal or whalebone replaces horsehair crinoline
3	Major Events (cont..) 1858 Worth founded couture house 1859 Darwin Origin of Species 1860 Crinoline reached its maximum size, requiring 10 yards or more of material to cover 1860 Prince of Wales visits the United States 1861 Napoleon begins war with Mexico 1861 Solvay patents soda making process to reduce cost of producing textiles, glass, and soap 1864 Open hearth process for steel 1865 Lister introduces anti-septic surgery 1867 Karl Marx writes Vol. I of Das Kapital
4	Political Factors: War to unify Italy Italy Victor Emmanuel II 1861-1878 England Queen Victoria 1837-1901 England 1861 Prince Albert dies American Civil War - Fort Sumpter 1861 France - Louis Napoleon 1852-1870 France Napoleon III marries Eugenie de Montejo of Spain Napoleon flees to England in 1870
5	People important to period: Sarah Josepha Hale editor of Godey’s Lady’s Book, crusaded for the improvement of women Charles Frederick Worth - first to use live mannequins to model costumes Amelia Jenks Bloomer editor of the Lily, crusaded for more sensible apparel for women- bloomer costume Franz Xavier Winterhalter, German artist, ladies of French court in off-shoulder dresses and wide flounced skirt
6	Transportation and Commerce Increase in imports Europe could ship the entire world Competition of main communication routes and progress in transport -steamships, railways, canals, new roads Cotton being used more often and wool after disease ravaged the European silk hatcheries England bought 70% of US cotton harvest and processed 60% of it and re-exported the rest
7	Transportation and Commerce Steam locomotives brought about traveling to the seashore and inland watering places with “casual clothes” for such visits Sports clothes appeared in the 1850s made of alpaca, nankeen and foulard in white and light colors for men
8	Civil War Era Sewing Machine Original cost $190 Sterling silver mountings Original models were often destroyed by hand sewers who believed it would put them out of work First American version by Elias Howe in 1843 Singer bought patent and marketed the sewing machine successfully Introduced concept of mass production
9	Women’s Garments Corsets more flexible, lost gussets, bust freer lavishly embroidered and lace trimmed undergarments petticoats stiffened with horsehair Hooped petticoat -circles of watch spring steel, protected by rubber, riveted to tapes Basque bodices, reminiscent of 16/18th centuries Pagoda sleeve Engageants - ruffles of lace at wrist Lingerie sleeve - separate accessories tied securely above elbow or part of chemise or under-blouse
10	"Large sleeved emphasis is gone..." Large sleeved emphasis is gone by 1848 Skirts are widening by multiple petticoats
11	Hairstyles Little girls’ hair was done in long ringlets Side curls a la Sevigne’ were worn by grown-up women, especially for evening The alternative was loops or plaits of hair in front of the ears [see next photo] Towards end of decade the alternatives began to supercede the curls, except for women with naturally curly hair Hair was parted in middle – almost obligatory
12	Lady with Reading Glass 1848 Daytime bodices were high necklines, usually at base of neck Some skirts had two bodices, one for day and a lower neckline for evening or closed in by chemisette as here Use of plaid fabric characteristic of the period Use of passementerie or fancy braid on edge of sleeve parts
13	"Black lace became fashionable" Black lace became fashionable Hair style with side curls typical Elongating point of bodice
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15	Bonnets Became gradually smaller than Romantic Till 1845 the crown and brim had perceptible join, then coalscuttle style horizontal in one piece
16	Paisley Shawl Characteristic of Cashmere shawl is the pine or cone – the pollen-bearing organ of date palm Became a status symbol since one might take two weavers a year to create Style lasted into 60s and even still for sale in 1887 at 100 to 400 pounds each Became mass produced article
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18	"Tiered skirts became more fashionable..." Tiered skirts became more fashionable in every fabrication
19	1859 – Crinoline at its zenith Dresses by Durand-Guerard Yards of intricate lace flounces was another means of advertising one’s wealth
20	Queen Victoria in Court Dress 1854 What distinguished court dress: Low neck Short sleeves Long train of green and white brocaded silk trimmed with white tulle and blonde, alternate bunches of violets and pink and white may blossoms Ostrich feathers Short veil [or lace lappets]
21	“Empress Crinoline” Spanish born Eugenie First to abandon the use of the lace and ribbon trimmed indoors cap, called a day cap in the Romantic period Used crinoline skirt with low decolletage
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23	Cage Crinoline 1860 Metal crinoline was introduced in 1856- first British patent though inventor was French Gave wide skirts without impeding legs with layers of heavy petticoats Wide cage made waist appear slender without tight lacing
24	Cage Crinoline Ad
25	Cage crinoline Replaced layers of petticoats
26	Cartoon – The safest way to escort a lady down the stairs.
27	Crinoline Cartoon
28	Bloomer Costume Amelia Jenks Bloomer, publisher of the Lily, a magazine for women Attempted to introduce Turkish harem pants to make women’s dress comfortable and practical as compared to crinoline Failed, but used for sports such as archery, ice skating and exercising with dumbbells
29	Winterhalter – Empress Eugenie and Her Ladies in Waiting
30	"Lingerie sleeves fitting to wrist..." Lingerie sleeves fitting to wrist under wider pagoda sleeves Jacket introduced by Empress Eugenie based on Velasquez’ portraits with peplum dresses of 17^th C
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32	Victoria and Albert - 1861 Black chantilly lace shawl Cage crinoline Albert has side burns or dundreries
33	Women’s Garments Princess/Gabriel dress, 1860s, one piece from neck to hem, ornamented with buttons or bow knot Dress on the right is the Gabriel or Princess dress. The seams are piped to make them standout Left is the Princess with matching cape with black soutache braid applique’
34	Wrappers Fasten down the front with elaborate loop and button closures and cord belt- circa 1855 Wrapper was informal garment , corset not laced as tightly, but not casual Distinct place in strict regimen of appropriate dress Governed by requirements of propriety
35	Wrappers- The lady’s Book of Etiquette
36	Empress Eugenie, Paris, 1859 Lingerie sleeves in white finish the forearm underneath the pagoda sleeve
37	Lady in vertically striped fabric- 1862 White peter pan collar
38	Contessa Castiglione, Italian mistress of Napoleon III
39	Corsets
40	Plaid Evening Dress
41	Fashion Plate
42	Two Evening Dresses 1864 Note different hair styles Trimming of early 60s was confined to lower part of skirt Two or three narrow flounces arranged asymmetrically Rows of pleating Bands of velvet Geometrical patterns Greek meander as here
43	Gowns of later part of the period Note the elliptical shape of the skirts instead of round
44	Later version of hoop skirt Fullness is moving towards the back
45	Princess Alice of Hesse and child Outer skirt is pulled up by dress elevators
46	Riding Costume
47	Croquet Players in Short Crinolines 1866
48	Croquet Outfit in Soutache Braid Algerian Zouave regiments in the French army that helped in the Italian War of Independence inspired the Zouave jacket with soutache braid decoration
49	Close up of braid trim
50	Bolero Jacket or Zouave Added to fashion at close of 1850s This outfit is white pique’ with black soutache’ braid trim, similar to blackwork embroidery of the Elizabethan period
51	Wedding Dress White or off-white were popular for wedding dresses but were not the only choice Fashionable brides could be married in colored day or evening style gown or even in a traveling dress which doubled as the going away outfit White was not exclusive to the bride Veils were not exclusive to the bride Materials used varied from French muslin to silks Orange blossoms were particularly favored and by 1870 wax orange blossoms became the usual wedding flower
52	June 28, 1864 Wedding Dress Very fine, white cotton called French muslin Bodice , underskirt and overskirt Overskirt is decorated with inset bands of gathered puffings and white-work embroidery
53	Garibaldi Shirt Garibaldi, Italian patriot used red shirt for himself It was adapted directly into women’s fashion Marked the beginning of skirt and blouse combination for women
54	Wardrobe needs of a Man about town Four morning coats Frock coat for formal occasions Dress tail coat for evening Overcoat Six pairs of morning trousers and one pair evening trousers Four morning and one evening waistcoat Boots Gloves, linen, hats, scarves and neckties
55	Gentleman 1845 Scarf cravat completely covered the shirt front Balzac declared that: “La cravate c’est l’homme”- the art of tying a cravat well was he mark of a gentleman. * Ditto suit
56	Duke and Princess of Wales 1863 Sack coat – high collar and lapel intersection, no waist indentation, rounded front edges Three pieces of suit in checked or flecked material and fastening in top button only were called lounging suits Requisite hat was the Bowler- shallow round hard hat
57	Male Costume in Painting Far left male has frock coat Middle figure has sack coat Artist- at right- is wearing spats
58	Charles Frederick Worth Became couturier to Empress Eugenie Founded first great house of female fashion in Europe Sign of having arrived socially was to have one’s gown made exclusively by House of Worth
59	Men’s Suits Far left has frock coat Middle sack with top hat, string tie Right has lounge suit in tweed and turn over shirt collar